HSM Practicality: 1920’s Kimono

1 Comment May 27, 2015 aimeevictorianarmoire

Nothing says practicality more than a robe….but that doesn’t mean it has to be a practical looking robe. So for this month’s challenge, I decided to create a 1920’s Kimono robe…a blending of both the HSM theme and my personal blog’s theme of “All Things Beautiful.” While this was not one of my more adventurous projects, it was nonetheless enjoyable, especially since I knew that this particular fabric would create an elegant robe.

I used a variety of patterns, mostly from descriptions in magazines, to create the basic shape of the robe, along with some well placed tucks on both the front and the back to give it a bit more shape. While I can’t imagine this being a warm wrap in the winter, it is the perfect weight for the heat of the summer.

Here are a few sample kimonos from which I took inspiration:

And now for the details:

Challenge: Practicality

Fabric: 4 yards sheer poly blend fabric

Pattern: Created based off of primary source descriptions and pictures

Year: 1920’s

Notions: 2 yards of ribbon for the tie

How Historically Accurate is it: Very accurate

Hours to Complete: 2 hours

Total Cost: $20

HSM: War and Peace

2 Comments April 27, 2015 aimeevictorianarmoire

With a theme like War and Peace it wasn’t hard to decide exactly what I wanted to make for this month’s Historical Sew Monthly Challenge…especially since it tied in perfectly with this month’s theme. Enter my 1940’s House Dress. Very simple, very sweet, and very satisfying. After last month’s ordeal, I was very happy to find something less stressful. For the past four weeks, I can’t stop my obsession with house dresses. Any kind, from any era, I am head over heels in love. While it did take me a while to settle myself on a style and look, I wasted no time in picking out the most cheery calico I could find! Add this dress with my 1940’s Hair Turban and the look is complete!

I drafted this pattern out of two pieces then cut out the neckline facing and the lined sleeves. The belt was made from the left over scraps. I also added a little rick rack to the neckline and the edge of the pockets…that’s right, it has pockets! While the first few stages remind me of a hospital gown, the outcome is just as simple and clean as I was hoping!

Challenge: War and Peace

Fabric: 3 yards of calico

Pattern: Self-drafted based off of other house dress of the time….although I did create a slimmer skirt.

Year: Mid 1940’s

Notions: 1 1/2 yard rickrack

How Historically Accurate is it?: Although the skirt could be made fuller, the overall look is very accurate.

Hours to Complete: 3 hours

Total Cost: $15

And now for the pictures….

HSM #3 – Stash Busting: 1780’s Round Gown

Leave a comment March 27, 2015 aimeevictorianarmoire

I am actually shocked that this gown was completed this month. There were many days when I thought I should just stop trying and quickly find something easier to make for this challenge. But I persevered and finished it Tuesday night!

For this challenge I used some beautiful light blue fabric that had been left over from a custom order that didn’t go through, so I thought this would be a great use of the material. Following the creation of the pattern and the extra difficulty of only being able to “shop” in my sewing room, the gown slowly but surely began to take shape.

All one piece, this gown features a false front skirt that ties about the waist and underneath the back portion of the skirt. I struggled with the inner lacing as I was reduced to taking old ribbon and the small amount of boning I had to create the lacing panels. I am not happy with them…at all. But again, be creative was the theme! The collar looked great before I turned it out and pressed it. The points were no where near as clean as I have made in the past…so again, not the happiest.

Overall, I am pleased that I finished the gown and am really looking forward to my plan for next month!!

Here is the info:

The Challenge: # 3 – Stash Busting

Fabric: 8 yds light blue cotton blend, 1 yard white muslin

Pattern: Based on an 1780 round gown as seen in Janet Arnold’s book

Year: 1780’s

Notions: 5 yards of cording, 1 yard wide ribbon, 1 yard boning, thread, snap tape, and twill tape

How Historically Accurate is it?: Fairly accurate, although due to only using items from my current stash, not all the notions used would be appropriate

Hours to Complete: 25 Hours

First Worn: Not yet…hopefully soon!

Total Cost: $0

HSM: Color Challenge Blue

5 Comments February 7, 2015 aimeevictorianarmoire

I have plowed through and completed the February challenge of Blue! I did so to allow for a little more time to complete a few other projects and to make sure that the challenge got done. Stemming off of January’s challenge, I created an 1880 Princess seam gown of navy cotton and velvet. I had every intention of photographing the process, however as alteration after alteration had to be made, I gave up and just focused on getting it finished. I am overall quite pleased with the look, however, my original plan and the finished outcome turned out to be different. I originally planned on not having a velvet panel in the front, but in order to have the dress hang right and close properly, one need to be added. I also had a different plan for the edging of the gown, but felt that the box pleat looked the nicest and fit the style of the gown. Underneath the gown, on the back portion of the hem, I added in a sheer beige trim to add a little extra umph to the gown. Lace was purchased, but not used, extra buttons were added here and there, and fingers were burned on the yards of pleating….but I finished it! I hope you enjoy the pictures!

The Challenge: #2 Color Challenge -Blue

Fabric: 8 yds Navy Cotton and 1 yd Royal Blue velvet

Pattern: Based on two different styles of dress – heavy reliance on Janet Arnold

Year: 1880

Notions: 6 yards navy braided trim, 13 navy covered buttons, 1 yd sheer fabric for under-pleat, boning

How Historically Accurate is it?: Very – I worked hard to get the right fit and style.

Hours to Complete: 20 Hours

First Worn: Planning on having a photo shoot soon!

Total Cost: $75

HSM: Dimity Bustle and Petticoat Complete!!

1 Comment January 22, 2015 aimeevictorianarmoire

I am very pleased to have finished the January challenge of the Historical Sew Monthly a little earlier than originally planned! I had a great time creating these two pieces and am excited to use them as the foundation pieces for February’s color challenge of blue.

Completing the bustle came with a few challenges, especially since the sides of the bustle have a slight bubble to them from the inside panels being tied. You will see what I mean when you look at the side of the finished product. Here are a few pictures of the final stages of the bustle: inserting the boning, adding the side panels, and attaching the inner ties.

HSM: Foundations – Dimity Bustle

Leave a comment January 16, 2015 aimeevictorianarmoire

I have begun working on the January challenge of Foundations for the Historical Sew Monthly. It took me almost a week to actually decide on what I wanted to do, as I was going back and forth between a corset, or a caged crinoline, or a farthingale…..the list goes on. I knew that one of the challenges I wanted to create this year was going to be a late 1870’s natural form, princess gown, so with that in mind, I decided to create a dimity bustle. I did some research and found a workable example with which I could create my pattern. I really wanted to create the entire look myself, so I was hesitant to see other people’s versions and patterns. I have found it a very fun project so far and, if time allows, will hope to complete a petticoat as well before the February challenge begins.

Here is what I have so accomplished so far:

The inspiration photograph

Here is a very rough diagram and sketch of the pattern I created….I know it’s a little hard to see. The inside of the bustle can be seen in the upper left hand corner of the page on the right side.

I created my 3 panel pieces and began stitching my boning channels with twill tape. Each piece, the outer as well as the two inner pieces (I will explain those pieces in my next post), were doubled in thickness to add some weight to the white muslin.

I did decide to go ahead and just directly attach the ruffles to the bottom of the bustle, even though the picture shows them as removable.

I am hoping that I can complete the project this weekend without too many distractions…all though even now I am rushing to complete this post before friends come over for dinner! 🙂

Enjoy your weekend and have a Happy MLK Day!

– Aimee