An Eye (and Envy) for Detail

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Which came first for me? Learning to sew by hand or by machine?  I’m sitting here trying to remember….I think it was by hand first?  Maybe?  Regardless, when I did learn to sew by hand, I remember as a young girl, sitting as patiently as possible with some old scrap of calico, trying to get my stitches as even and neat as possible.  You know, like Laura Ingalls Wilder had to do when she was a child.  I remember really struggling with not bunching up the thread on the back side of the fabric, and trying to make sure knots didn’t form on the thread itself….it was a very stressful experience! 🙂  But, like so many things in life, the more practice and time I put in, the easier and better looking my hand sewing became.

This is why when I see any examples of hand sewing so stunning that one questions if a machine did it, it makes me simply giddy with envy and happiness.  Whoever that person was who created that magnificent item, valued and understood the importance of practice, practice, practice.  A needed skill and character trait that is so important when trying to better oneself.  I’ve collected four pictures of such garments that really show the skill and detail of really, I mean really, high quality hand sewing!

Let’s begin with this late 1700’s bodice.  I mean, look at all that hand detail!  The stitches, the curves, the ruffles….. absolutely gorgeous!! 

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These stays also show the skill and hand strength needed to create small, identical stitches through very stiff fabric and boning!

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The back of this bodice also shows the delicate hand stitching that can really take a garment up to the next level:

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And of course, the most amazing of all is this 1820’s bonnet, complete with tatting, that shows not only a person’s skill, but the needed height to accommodate the hairstyle of the period!

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Even in the age of computerized sewing machines, high quality hand sewing is still a much needed and much appreciated skill!

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The Timeless Appeal of Velvet….

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I am going to a wedding this weekend and, of course, when a major event requires you to dress up….you suddenly have “nothing to wear.”  Well, let me be the first to say that I have plenty  to wear in my closet.  And I am sure if I dug deep enough, I would have found something that would have done a passably good job.  But this is a very good friend’s wedding and, well, do I want to look just passably good?  Heck no!  So, off I went to the mall this past week in search for the perfect dress.  Now, normally when a person is determined to find a certain item, it always turns out that you can’t find anything.  But not this time!!  The fashion gods were beaming their good graces down upon me and dress upon dress was looking and feeling great.  But it wasn’t until I slipped on a wild card that the bells of discovery clanged loudly!

This out of the box, never thought it would work, item was a emerald green velvet dress.  This very one in fact:

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Dress from Lord and Taylor

Now, I haven’t worn velvet since I was seven years old.  Strangely enough it was also an emerald green velvet dress that was two sizes too big…but when you’re seven, you don’t get caught up on those types of details.  Anyway, I was nervous about this particular dress.  Could I pull off such a classy and fitted style?  I know that velvet is fabric that never goes out of style…but that doesn’t mean that it was something I should snap up right away without giving it a good thought.  So I did…and well, its currently hanging up in my closet! 🙂

It is easy to think that fabric is just fabric.  That as long as it forms the shape you need, it is forgettable.  I disagree.  Some fabric has a life and a character all its own…and has the power to secure a fond memory somewhere in your brain.  Velvet is such a fabric.  I have worn many Easter dresses in my time….but I will always remember the one when I was seven, because , well, it was velvet.  And I am most certain that our foremothers felt the same way.  I mean, take a look at these stunning, green velvet creations from the 1880’s-1890’s

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I am sure the lucky women who were able to wear these gowns thought back on them with fondness…and I hope I am able to do the same! 🙂

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How to Create a Skirt Placket

Knowing how to create a skirt placket is a very easy, yet very vital skill when it comes to sewing.  Whether you sew historical pieces, vintage or modern, a properly sewn placket adds a crisp and tailored look!

But what is a placket, you ask?  Great question!  It is actually something I learned years into historical sewing.  A placket is a small strip of fabric attached to a slit in back or front panel of the skirt.  It is carefully constructed that when you skirt is closed, no gaps or glimpses of your petticoat will be seen!  Handy, right?

Begin by taking a 3-4 inch wide piece of fabric and cut it as as long as you need. I usually cut my plackets 4″ x 10″, but it is up to you – let your waist measurement be the guide.  The wider the waist, the longer the placket needed.

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Is it a Match? 1910’s Jewelry and their Modern Counterparts

1910 jewelry

How many times have you wanted something and just couldn’t have it?  If you are anything like me it has happened only about a million times.  And when you realize that you are one of those individuals that can trace some ancestry to a raccoon (as I too love shiny, sparkly things), than you may have to embrace a strategy I like to call “finding an alternative.”  If I can’t find it, I will try to make it.  If I can’t afford it, I will try to find a really good look alike.  And if I can’t have anything but the original, than I will save and wait patiently until I can.  The last option doesn’t happen all that often.

So when it comes to trying to find reproduction pieces, it can be rather tricky to locate an affordable and suitable option.  But with a little bit of time and energy, you too can make all your sparkly dreams come true.

So with that in mind, I decided I wanted to write a post on late Edwardian jewelry and some modern alternatives.  Edwardian fashion is such a wonderful dichotomy of simplicity with traces of its Victorian heritage, but not quite the art deco that will replace it.  So, I have found three of my most favorite examples of this simplistic style with some lovely adaptations that all seem to hover around the $35 mark.  So, if you love all things Downtown Abbey but can’t afford the real deal….than this post is for you!

To start with is a lovely young lady wearing a modesty brooch.  I found a stunning example through Overstock.

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Silver Brooch from Overstock  – $34

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This stunning necklace features a large medallion on a long black cord.  While difficult to find an exact replica, I believe I found one that is the essence of the style.

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Long Cord Necklace with Medallion from MarKi Jewelry  – $34

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I adore this necklace and love the dress that goes with it.  Sigh…..  The necklace I found features more beads than the original but I feel would be a perfect piece to wear with this dress.

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Three Strand Hampton Necklace from Shoptiques  – $38

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So whether you are looking to accessorize a 1910’s outfit, or simply to bring a little nostalgia into your modern life, these pieces would fit like a glove!

Happy Hunting!

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Did you know that Aimee’s Victorian Armoire Shop now features several instant downloadable patterns?  Click HERE to see the current options available.


On My Inspiration Board: Calico Gowns

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It is hard to believe that a fabric which evokes simplicity, homey-ness, and (if you are me) Little House on the Prairie, has a very fascinating and international history.  Originating from Calicut, India, the fabric we know as calico gained popularity from it’s early 11th century birth and well into our modern age.  Known for a sold color on which a simply design repeats all over, calico has become a much used piece of fabric.

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An example of an early calico fabric

Long used for a variety of sewing projects which ranged from dresses to quilts to kitchen linens, calico is easily one of the most widely used and widely appreciated fabrics around.  The other wonderful thing about calico is it’s very affordable price tag.  I love picking up yards of happy calico, even if I don’t have a particular project in mind, because of its versatility.  While not exactly known for it’s luxury, there are many examples of gowns constructed from calico.  In fact, Hollywood has some wonderfully fun samples of calico dresses, even if they aren’t completely accurate:

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Little House on the Prairie

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Jane Eyre, 2014

So with all these wonderful choices, I had a very fun time creating this month’s inspiration board!  I hope you enjoy!

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Click HERE to visit my Pinterest Page for more examples.

Have a wonderful Monday,

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What to Wear in the Morning…or Dream versus Reality

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My morning routine…..well, I must say I am a creature of habit, but it isn’t exactly a pretty picture.  My alarm goes off at 5, and I stumble to take my shower.  Once clean, I shuffle off to the kitchen to brew a cup of coffee and turn on the Hallmark channel so I can listen to I Love Lucy as I try to get some blogging done.  Then I begin the 45 minute procedure of preparing myself to go out into the world.  And up until that moment of when I put on my street clothes, I am wearing a very warm, very comfortable, but not very flattering, purple flannel robe.  I have tried to switch to something a bit nicer, but after a few days of flying powder dust, wildly applied hairspray, and coffee dribbles, I end up back in something a bit more durable.  Of course, this doesn’t stop me from continuing to hunt for a robe thats both comfy and more attractive.

I know I am not alone in this dilemma of comfort versus beauty.  And in discussions with fellow friends, I was comforted to realize that while many of us want to feel more attractive in the early morning hours, removing oneself from a warm bed to put on some lacy, thin thing isn’t very appealing…especially during the winter months.  And as I further mulled over the morning ritual, I began to search for examples of past robes or morning gowns to see what women in the past would have put on during their morning routines.  And based on my findings, there are quite a few I would love to wear!

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Known as wrappers during the 1840’s-1860’s, these robe-like gowns were often worn over all a woman’s undergarments (hoop skirt included).  While I love the idea of a loose, flowy gown, still having to have on your corset isn’t always my ideal.  However, the pattern on this example is simply stunning.

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Another example of a morning gown or wrapper, this particular one has a lovely royal blue contrast with tassel tie.

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So, this is absolutely, positively, without a doubt, gorgeous!!  The lace, the color, the ribbon tie…..sheer perfection….and a little too chilly for me in the mornings.  I love it, but I personally wouldn’t wear it.

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1920

The Kimono robe, and the robe as we know it today, began to emerge in the late 1910’s to 1920’s.  While I would struggle keeping the long sleeves clean, this is exactly the sort of thing I would love to slip on and wear around the house.  I probably wouldn’t get much accomplished, but I sure would look and feel great while wearing it!

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While these 1930’s options are not exactly robes, they are morning dresses and would be lovely to wear around the house.  While I  still feel like it would require quite a few wardrobe changes throughout the day, the look is adorable.

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1940

Now this is something right up my alley!  I love the quilted versions of these robes along with their tailored construction.

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So let your morning routine be beautified by a lovely (and comfortable) robe! 

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Recreate this Look: 1940’s Short Sleeve Suit

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This month’s outfit inspiration is an adorable 1940’s suit with featuring very ladylike accessories.  The only part of the look that made me scratch my head was the choice to use loafers as the shoes.  I don’t know…I love the clean look of heels with a suit…but I guess that’s just me.

Finding a short sleeve suit jacket is rather a tall order these days, so I was very happy to have found one at a reasonable price.  Suits are a fantastic investment as they can be worn together or as separates, and finding a jacket that can carry over into the warmer months is even better.  This particular look would be perfect for a variety of functions, although I don’t think my hat choice is very flexible…but it certainly does look great!

So let’s take a look at the original 1940’s inspiration:

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Fresh, youthful, and a great choice for the upcoming summer, this outfit is a gem!

Now for my version!  Simply click on any of the thumbnail pictures to see price and where to purchase.

1940's Pink and Charcoal Black Suit

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Isn’t it just amazing?!?!  

Want to create your own suit?  What about this pattern from Eva Dress?

Simply shorten the sleeves, and this patter would be perfect!  Click picture to see pattern.

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Have a wonderful day!!

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Deconstructing a Dress

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How many times have you spent looking for that perfect item to create?  And after much time searching, you finally find it and can’t wait to get started!  You sit down with your sewing machine, fabric, and cup of coffee and then you realize….you don’t have a pattern.  Perhaps you have something similar that you could adapt, but you just aren’t sure what the pieces should look like.

Don’t worry!  

It isn’t hard to figure out what pieces you will need to complete that most perfect ensemble!  Simply take some time to really analyze all areas of the dress and you will be surprised at how quickly all the pieces will jump out at you!

Not sure what I mean?  Just follow along to learn how I deconstruct a vintage dress!!

To start with, you need to find the dress or garment you would like to create.  I have chosen this 1930’s dress:

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Once your choice is made, it is time to take a long hard look at all areas of the dress from top to bottom.

Below is the same picture, but with notes on the major areas of construction, along with shapes and details:

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Taking all of these notes, I then would mock up a pattern of all the pieces I would need to create the dress.  Just like this…

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From here, you can then begin adding your own measurements to the patterns, and begin the fun process of completing your chosen garment!

Later on this month, I will show you how to take drawn-out patterns like this, and create full-size custom pieces based on your measurements!!

 

So don’t just let that most admired outfit remain on the page…let it come to life on you!!!

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