An 1840’s Pleated Gown

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Okay…so I had every intention of beginning to recreate the 1850’s Day Gown I made earlier in the year.  See post HERE.  So I took my little self down to the fabric store I use and bought beautiful terra cotta color fabric.  I just fell in love with it and quickly scooped up 9 yards again, with every intention of starting it.  However, the fabric just didn’t seem to want to be an 1850’s gown.  People think I’m crazy, but usually when I shop for fabric, I never go in with what I want to make, I just find fabric I like and it tells me what it wants to be.   And for the most part, it turns out!  I find when I stray from that method, I end up making a hot mess.

Anyway…so this fabric just did not want to be an 1850’s or even 1860’s gown…it wanted to be an 1840’s gown.  I apologize to a faithful reader who has been patiently waiting for me to recreate the 1850’s gown…I promise it will happen!!! 🙂

I took a few pictures of what I have accomplished so far:

The bodice has a deeper point in the front than an 1850’s gown –

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Pleats: An Easy Way to Make Something Special

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I am all about subtle details that add beauty and elegance to a gown.  In my sewing, and in my modern dressing, I love to let the fabric and soft alterations of the fabric be the focus of what I am making/wearing.  This is why I love pleats.  Pleats, in my opinion, can range from soft gathers that are pressed, to perfectly measured and spaced out folds.  Pleats, whether sewn in or draped on top, are the simplest and quickest way to make what would be a simple gown into something elegant and feminine.  All you need is fabric!

 Let’s take a look at some examples:

Here the pleats are around the hem of this 1850’s gown and softly gathered into the yoke of the wide neckline on the bodice.

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A shawl by any name…

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Whether you call it a mantilla, a coverlet, a shawl, a drape, or wrap, women have been finding delicate things to sling across their shoulders for the duel purpose or warmth (sometimes) and beauty.  I personally love wraps and capes and wear them all throughout the winter for the same duel purpose as our foremothers centuries ago.  I recently acquired 5 yards of beautiful black lace with the intention of creating a shawl of some sort.   While researching I came across these examples from an 1855 Goodey’s Lady’s Book, August edition I believe, and just fell in love.  Now clearly these drawings are very detailed and have materials that I may have trouble getting a hold of, yet they are provide a great base.  After I complete the current gown I’m working on (which hopefully will be today), I plan on starting to draft up a pattern for one of these shawls, or wraps, or what ever you like to call it! 🙂

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“Gore-ing” does not equal Boring!

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I spent yesterday afternoon working on creating the skirt panels for my 1865 Green Gown.  When I was planning the gown, I wanted to create something different and really use the fabric effectively in the design, so I decided to do a gored skirt.  Not hard, just not something I don’t do often.  The main problem I have with gored skirts is getting the ratio of fullness and tightness just right.  I want to make sure the skirt goes easily around the undergarments without looking tight or pulled, yet I don’t want so much fabric that is loses that smooth finish.  I started off with six panels, but wasn’t happy so I went to eight and I am quite pleased with how it is turning out.  I just pinned it on so I could get a sense of the lay of the skirt.  Hopefully I can spend the next few days attaching it to the bodice, and working out the hem.  I want a slight train on the skirt, so getting it to flow evenly on a gored skirt just takes a little time.

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As to my upcoming list of projects, here is what I have compiled so far (in no particular order):

– 1850’s Day Gown

– Lace Mantle

– 1860’s Sheer Gown

– 1858 Trimmed Jacket with matching skirt

– 1860 Two-tone Gown with overskirt

Will keep you up to date with all these projects as I go!

Planning and Dreaming…

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In a few weeks time, I am planning on starting the challenging process of doubling my inventory by the end of the year.  This summer has been wonderfully busy, yet has left my clothing stock thin and sparse.  One of my favorite parts of the whole dressmaking process is planning and drafting up various looks and styles of gowns I want to make.  The majority of gowns will still be from the 1860’s, yet I plan on adding some 1850’s gowns, and perhaps dipping back into some Regency.  I am going to be on the hunt for fabrics, trims, and accessories for these gowns, and would love some help in making the “difficult” choice of narrowing down various styles.

So….what are your thoughts?  Any particular era you would like to see?  Any colors that would be wonderful to use?  What about looks of sleeves or trim?

I would love to hear from you all as I begin planning and dreaming! :-0

Pop that collar!

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Collars are a very attractive and inexpensive way to change the look of a gown.  In fact, when purchasing a dress, check to see if you can also have a removable collar made at the same time.  A removable collar means just that…it comes off for easy cleaning and is attached to the neckline of the bodice by buttons, snaps, or lightly basted.  Not all bodices are designed to have a collar (v-necked), but if the neckline is high, any type of collar can be attached.  One can have a collar made out of handkerchief linen, muslin, cotton, or lace.

There are three most common types of collars used in the 1850’s and 60’s: the Peter Pan collar, the jabot, and the less common straight collar.  Here are some examples:

The Peter Pan Collar

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Something shiny to grace the neck…

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I am continuing the series of different types of jewelry worn during the 1850’s and 60’s.  I have already created a post on earrings , and now am moving on to necklaces.

As a result of my research, I have decided to combine necklaces and brooches into a collection of “items of jewelry worn around or at the base of the neck.”  And for this particular post, I tried to restrict my examples to daywear, as there are (just like today) different types of jewelry worn for different occasions.

Necklaces

For the most part, if necklaces were worn during the day, they tended to be long gold chain, perhaps several strands that draped down the front of the bodice.  Many women also appeared to have worn brooches as well.  Here are some examples:

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A sleeve by any name…may just work!

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While it is true that in modern clothing, there may be some variations, it, nonetheless, does not compare to the copious amounts seen in gowns from the past century.  Whenever I am planning my next gown, one of the areas that I will carefully considered are the sleeves.  Sometimes I decided based on the fabric, sometimes the shape of the bodice, or the length of the train, but the accurately chosen sleeve can really complete a look.

When choosing and creating a sleeve there are three simple rules to keep in mind:

1. Make sure the shoulder seam is dropped a few inches than what today’s clothing would view as normal.

2. Make sure to NOT have a tight sleeve.  While some styles may be narrow around the arm, you do not want it stretched over your bicep.  Think graceful and flowing at all times!

3.  The sleeves (just like everything else ) should be designed to show off the waist….whatever size you are.

Here are several examples of the most popular styles of sleeves from the late 1850’s-18’60’s.  Since this is my area of expertise, I began here…however please comment below if you would like me to focus on other time periods!

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